FOUND in Tokyo

Well, I arrived yesterday at Tokyo station on the Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka. I was so happy to be back! Tokyo feels like home now. Like a familiar old sweater you pull out of your drawer to bring you some form of comfort. Funny part is just a few days ago I was just as lost in Tokyo as I was in Osaka. 

Last night I did what any tired vacationer should do -- I rested. I actually didn't even go out for dinner, as I have a pretty good supply of Pure Protein bars and shakes - enough to keep me fed for 3 weeks away from civilization in fact.  So, I settled into the new re-designed room here at the posh Courtyard Ginza Hotel and watched V for Vendetta on DVD. May seem boring to some but not to me!

Today I got up early once again and hit Sushi Dai. I met a very nice dude from New York in queue who said he was in town writing a piece for GQ on Tokyo dining. I didn't get his name - I'll just chalk him up to another single serving Sushi Dai queue friend and leave it at that. The sushi was delicious of course!

I stopped at Starbucks on my way home and acquired a Grande Christmas blend. It was 7 AM and I was already pretty satisfied with the level of my activity for the day. I worked on a short film I'm doing on this vacation - and another one that is a surprise for Princess. She arrives tomorrow and I want everything to be perfect of course. (Even though her film won't be done until I can get home to LA)

Tonight I just got back from eating at one of my favorites - Tofuro. I found it with no trouble at all, quite confidently venturing pretty far from the hotel on foot to do so. 

Tofuro is an Izakaya place - quite simply, one of the places that serves tiny dishes with big beers to salary folks on their way home. I ordered many dishes and they were all delicious - but none was more delicious than the Creamy Tofu. Delivered in a presentation that looks like a perfectly formed round scoop of pure white vanilla ice cream, it is an absolute delight! Some fresh ground Wasabi and special sauce makes it go down pretty easy. I found that it is best to use your chopsticks to cut it in half and then flip both sides over on their flat side.  Much more stable this way than trying to work with a slippery ball of hard tofu when you are not gifted at chopstick use. 

Three beers later I got my check and hit the road back to the hotel. The remainder of my waking hours tonight will be spent watching Fight Club - hence my single serving friend reference above. :)

Peace out from Ginza...

JH 

Osaka 2007 - Night Two

Tonight I decided to search out the perfect Osaka dinner. I left the hotel and with map in hand, began to navigate my way to Negiyaki Yamamoto. The Sought Item? An Osaka delicacy called Okonomiyaki - which is basically best described as a cross between a pancake and an omelet. 

So, according to the map, I should have been able to walk there within 10 - 15 minutes. Two hours later, I was tired, very hungry, and terribly lost! To put things in proper context - being on vacation in a foreign land is all about hitting the streets and getting lost. Japan is great for that! There are very few street signs and no addresses. And, most likely, the name of the place you are looking for will have a sign that is completely written in Japanese.  Lastly, even though I know how to ask for directions, I'm not fluent enough in the language to be able to understand the directions - which turns out to be an exercise in patience. 

Quite by chance, blind luck, and/or both, I finally came across a place that could be it - and a quick match of the phone number confirmed it! I ordered my okonomiyaki with pork - and the normal batter includes some squid. It is topped off with some delicious sauce. They then serve it to the heated surface in front of you - keeping it perfectly warm while you eat it. I also ordered a medium draft beer as the perfect accompaniment. 

Nara 2007 - The Sake Pilgrimage and the Deer

A short train ride (about 45 minutes) from Osaka is a very lovely country city called Nara.  Today I decided to journey there for two purposes - 1. The perfect Sake; 2. The Deer;

Allow me to expand on those two: 

Purpose 1 - Last year we had a lovely Sushi dinner in Ginza at a place called Kyubei. They served us Harushika Sake and it was the best Sake we ever had. We researched and found out the Sake is from Nara. So, planning for this pilgrimage was a year in the making! I would goto Nara and acquire the Sake, and then move on to purpose 2.

Purpose 2 - Nara is an area heavily vested in tradition. They have a lovely temple area that is completely surrounded by Deer. The Deer are tame (although a little persistent) and people buy feed for them and the Deer swarm like bees trying to get some. Most interesting is the Deer have been living in this park for over 1,300 years and are thought to be sacred messengers of Shinto deity Takenomikazuchi-no-mikoto.  Until 1637, killing one of these divine Deer was a capital offense and carried the death penalty. 

I have to say Nara is one of the unique places in the world and it is a pleasure to visit.

Tokyo 2007 - Night One

Tonight I adventured out to Shinjuku. I started by taking a taxi to the Park Hyatt Hotel. I found my way up to the 41st floor lobby.  I found it quite dark but imagine that is so you can see the view better - which is remarkable. I followed the signs to my desired destination - The New York Bar.

Located on the 52nd floor, the bar was once very dark like the lobby. Many well dressed couples sat looking out at the unbelievable views and listening to the jazz band. The band had a lady vocalist who sang mostly jazzed up christmas carols. She used a lot of scat singing and was very talented.   Although she was different than the singer from Lost in Translation, the setting was the same. I scanned for Bill, Scarlett, and Sophia but they were not there! lol

I finally got seated. (I seemed to be ignored for a while by the fast moving hostess who ran to and fro.) I ordered Kirin Beer (my usual choice) and then another. I then looked on in envy of the individuals who were eating delicious looking foods and asked for a menu. They have a very complete menu of high brow bar food. I found an interesting item titled 'Soft Shell Crab Tortilla' and I ordered it. It came with a delicious Lemon Aioli for dipping. The tortilla was served in four small tubes. It was the perfect size dish and very flavorful. 

I paid my bill and moved back to the ground floor (2nd Floor actually) and found a very helpful Hyatt staffer to give me walking directions to Shinjuku station. She told me it was a 10 - 15 minute walk and it was.

I walked around the side streets around the station and was propositioned by ladies representing hookers. It was kind of funny! One lady said something to me and I stopped to ask her to repeat it. She said, "Massage?" I replied, "No, thank you." The two ladies with her laughed and said I was very polite.  Well, at least I have that going for me! 

I boarded a train and arrived at Ginza station. A short walk later I was back in my hotel room.

Tomorrow I am going to meet up with my cousin in law who speaks perfect english. A conversation with another human who isn't a hotel staffer? Brilliant! lol

Tokyo 2007 - Day One

I woke up today at 3:30 AM. Why? Because all people visiting from the USA are supposed to do that.  It is kind of like the law. We are then all supposed to pull ourselves up out of bed and walk to the Tsukiji Fish Market.  

I arrived at 4 AM and got in queue (yes, a queue at 4 AM) for Sushi Dai. I must place my next statement in the proper context by stating -  1. It may be something about just arriving to Japan, 2. being the first day of vacation, 3. the long wait in queue at 4 AM, 4. the feeling of the warm sushi bar after you've been out in the cold, and/or 5. drinking beer at 5 AM - Sushi Dai is the best damn Sushi - period. Everything served was masterfully prepared and perfect. And, I can't wait to go back next Thursday!! (And next Saturday)

After Sushi Dai I came back the hotel. It was 6 AM. Although I felt I should crawl back into bed for some more sleep, after a video call with Princess over Skype I felt like getting back out to the streets. I decided I would take a river cruise on my favorite river - Sumida-gawa. 

So, I found my way to the Tokyo subway and took the Ginza line to Asakusa. I went at a slow pace because the river cruise place doesn't open until 9:30 AM with the first boat leaving at 10 AM.  So, I went to the Asakusa Starbucks to attempt to order a Grande Coffee - which was very easy! (Grande Cohi Kudasai)

The boat left with the same punctuality as the trains and I was off floating on the river. The windows were too dirty to take good pictures so I just sat back and relaxed. After my round trip journey was complete I had a lovely pork cutlet for lunch and, you guessed it - I found my way back to the Ginza line and got off at Ginza station. A few rough wrong turns aside, I got back to my hotel room and got Princess back on Skype.

Please stay tuned for the next entry "Night Two"...

Tokyo 2007 - The Trip and Night One

I arrived to the airport about 60 minutes before boarding time. Just enough time jump through security and to stop by the duty free and do some serious browsing. I purchased my old Gucci scent.

I boarded the plane and got situated into my bulkhead  United business seat. I was immediately offered some orange juice and my sport coat was whisked away. I took off my shoes and stored them with my luggage in the overhead. And, I sat down waiting for take off. 

After takeoff I got my usual refill on my juice and some nuts. True United fashion. I selected the beef for my entree and it arrived well heated and it was delicious. Even though I just watched in Tuesday night, I watched Bourne Ultimatum on the in flight during dinner, which I found to be surprisingly simplistic for today's standards (the entertainment system - not Bourne). 

I had a very restful 11+ hour flight - except for the young boy who was seated right behind me. It seemed that he had a hard time finding his "inside" voice. But, no worries.

When I arrived at Narita I was shocked at how close the gate was to the immigration. I remembered from last year a very long walk on many moving sidewalks. But, I really breezed through in no more than 10 minutes. A quick stop for my bags (they came out right away) and I was off for customs - which took about 15 seconds. 

I struggled with my rented mobile phone for a little while - as I thought my SIM card would allow me to use my number in Japan. But, I could not get it to work.  So, I'm just using the number that was provided with the phone. Once I got through struggling with how to put a "+" in front of my desired number, calling Princess was a breeze. I woke her up to tell her goodnight. 

Off to the JR station to catch my Narita Express train. I stopped at the kiosk in true veteran traveler fashion and quickly acquired my ticket.  I got to the platform and my train was waiting for me - ready to board. I stored my bags and found my seat. I arrived at Tokyo station a little more than one hour later.

I grabbed a cab and headed to the Ginza Tobu Hotel - a hotel which has had many names. It is currently a Courtyard by Marriott. I checked in and got up to my room.  I waited five or ten minutes for my Platinum arrival gift to come. I ordered Beer, Nuts, and Fruit. (When I travel for business I typically take the points instead of the arrival gift.)

After some Japanese TV, I got in the shower with the intent of getting cleaned up and then walking to Andy's Shin Hinomoto - a lovely Japanese pub run by a dude from the UK. (Yes, that would be Andy.) I finally found it but Andy, although happy to see me again, was unable to seat me because they were far to busy.  So, I walked back to the hotel - stopped at AM/PM for a sandwich and some water - and went back to my room.

Uneventful? I think not!